A Journey Through Iceland: Embracing the Unknown (June 28th, 2024 - July 8th, 2024)

How can I convey an experience that’s beyond words? The initial route choice remained unclear. I scrutinized a myriad of online resources, my eyes darting across the glowing screen as I delved into a sea of information. The faint hum of the computer filled the air, blending with the tapping of my fingers on the keyboard. With each email I composed to unknown to me people in Iceland, my fingertips grazed the smooth keys, feeling their coolness beneath my touch. The road F26, dividing Iceland in half from north to south, was not passable because of the snow. I spent the last day analyzing the map, figuring out the plan. After checking out reviews about road F35, I decided we could take it to cross the vast island. We could also use a route from bikepacking.com to enhance our trek if time permitted. The profound sense of contentment that came with the plan being established was undeniable. I was packing my bags right until the last moments before the trip. We calculated that we’d need a ten-day supply of food. However, the idea of eating powdered calories, with an unknown composition for a long time, made me uneasy, but we had no other choice. I hoped our internal organs won’t burst because of this. You might believe I’m unyielding and bold, based on the photographic evidence of my adventures. This is quite a distortion of reality. I often deal with feelings of worry and unease. However, I am open to the unknown, accepting the journey and its occurrences as they unfold, and I am content with the outcome, regardless of its nature. I imagine that all my experiences shape me for what’s coming next. The flight to Reykjavik took only six hours. I will never forget that meals on Icelandair are not provided for free. After reaching our destination, we located the bike pit where we could build our bikes and store our suitcases and other things. Another individual put his bike together here. We exchanged words and offered our best wishes for his journey as he left. The automatic door in the pit was sliding open, activated by our presence. Annoyingly, as it permitted the chilly Icelandic breeze to flow into the comfortable haven. It wasn’t until later that we realized the wind would be our reliable companion for the duration of the trip. So much we had not known.

At around 11pm, the fiery hues of the sunset blazed across the sky, casting a warm glow despite the late hour. The vibrant colors painted a breathtaking picture, with streaks of orange, pink, and purple blending together in a mesmerizing display. Nightfall never occurred after that, as the Icelandic summer nights offer daylight around the clock. Our natural rhythms were out of sync. We felt completely worn out, but we couldn’t sleep. All of this was so exciting. We stowed our bikes and gear into the truck. Chris was the designated driver. We took a break for breakfast at a small restaurant/motel. They make their own bread, which tasted like a piece of heaven (our first wonderful experience here). Our eyelids grew heavier as noon drew closer, regardless of the coffee we drank. Driving became out of the question and stopping was imperative. We found a campground and parked our car on the moist grass. We put up the tent and enjoyed an hour of serene sleep.

Our adventure was about to begin! Just one more stop for the Icelandic hotdogs and to get gas. The wind, rain, and freezing temperatures at the gas station drove home the point that we would cycle in this environment. Somewhat alarming thought at first. Remember, if you are apprehensive, just act. Action clears away all ambiguity and empowers you to move forward. I failed to mention how remote this place feels, but the landscape was incredibly beautiful in a way that left me speechless. The physical feeling of my chest expanding brought about the chilling possibility of my memories being overwritten; Each experience, a raw, unyielding force, forges my character, shaping me with a fiery intensity. With each passing day on this trip, I felt myself expanding and evolving. Upon dropping the car off, we packed all our belongings onto the bikes. The food left them feeling full and sluggish. I couldn’t imagine pedaling up the hills with such a heavy bike. Panic set in. Would I have to discard some of the provisions somewhere? My pulse was racing uphill. Maybe I could immediately eat to reduce my load a bit, I considered. That concept was completely illogical. We departed from Akureyri and found ourselves on the ring road. The traffic was more congested, and the weather was getting worse the higher we climbed. To our surprise, a severe storm struck us amids of the summer. The forceful wind limited our speed. Every time we came to a standstill, the icy rain would penetrate us with a bone-chilling cold. The inclines were steep, and I was apprehensive we’d perish in the cold. Although the first part of the journey was difficult, the magnificent views that emerged before us never failed to fascinate. We managed 60 miles on the very first day, although we intended to cover more ground. That wind made it a genuine struggle to advance. What awaited us was uncertain, but we held onto our optimism. We found a couple of trucks to hide behind in an isolated area. The spot was perfect for establishing camp.

The bright, golden sunlight touching our faces inspired hope as we dismantled the camp. The warm sun caused a swarm of midges to appear. On the gradual climbs, bothersome flies sought to find a home in our eyes and noses. Luckily, Chris packed mosquito nets. Sheep, roadside, seemed perpetually surprised as we went past. The distant glaciers loomed with snow, their frigid breath hanging in the air.

Soon we entered road F35, which began paved but quickly became a dirt road. We entered the farmlands. Fields sprawled far and wide. The farm animals elevated their heads to glimpse at us in surprise or to dart across to the other side of the road. The farmlands ended with a ‘Impassable’ sign and a foreboding feeling of isolation. SUVs and trucks were the only vehicles that passed us by. The glaciers were more prominent, and the blue-colored waters of glacier lakes mirrored the sky. The crisp, cold air, infused with the aroma of snow and ice, flowed down from the glaciers. Volcanic soil and rocks spread across the terrain. We ventured into Iceland’s interior. Moss was the sole evidence that anything lived there. The earth shifted from brown to black. Porous rocks were dispersed across the landscape. We found a camping spot beneath a large mound of sand. We believed the mound would protect us from the wind.

The next day, the sun broke through the clouds, to begin with. We stopped at the Geyser park and contemplated the pungent odor of sulfur and the extremely heated water. Later, the weather deteriorated, and we found ourselves trapped in the sandstorm. The headwinds were extremely harsh. We covered our faces to stop the ashen dust from getting into our lungs. We moved at a snail’s pace, and I thought it would take us forever to travel like this, but after a while we reached an area that was hilly but storm free. Sulfur lingered in the air, but we were relieved to be out of the wild desert. We arrived at an overlook and came across a young lady who was employed in the hut. She invited us in for a cake. It was a mouthwatering home baked fruit cake with freshly whipped cream. What a delightful experience after eating our powdered food! Rain fell once more, and we meandered into a mossy green area. The temperature was warmer despite the rain, but when we ascended, it decreased once more. We opted to camp near a river, feeling that it was warmer in the valley. The wind and rain made it harder to put up the tents. And shortly after, Chris’ tent caved in, getting some of his gear wet. He rushed into my tent, which wasn’t properly secured either, but it appeared capable of withstanding the fierce wind. We made it through the turbulent night, and woke up to a scene of hushed, fog-laden calm.

Another memorable part of traversing Iceland on road F35 was a delicious dinner in another hut, a secluded spot. We paid an excessive amount for the hotdogs, but they were undeniably worth it. Of all the waterfalls we encountered, Selfoss was the most magnificent. We took a break for a very enjoyable dinner at the visitor’s center there. Then we connected with the ring road and did a ride following the route from bikepacking.com. A standout moment on the ring road was taking a food break to hide behind trucks with spoiled fish. The stench was awful, but the shelter the trucks provided from the chilly wind didn’t leave us with many options. When famished, the smell didn’t bother us. Furthermore, stumbling upon camp in the midst of a nutka lupine (an invasive species purple flowers) field was a real pleasure. The smell, heavy and sweet, was overpowering, but it couldn’t lessen the extraordinary charm of the place.

Iceland Fjallabak Track

While the vistas on this route were breathtaking, it lacked resupply points. The food we carried was utilized here. The unpaved paths snaked through the national park and the Fjallabak Nature Reserve. We also came close to an active volcano, Hekla. Many streams and rivers had to be crossed. We swapped our shoes each time we went from one side to the other. It evolved into a routine and the icy cold water didn’t bother us anymore. Of course, one glacier was constantly in our sight, visible on the horizon. We could also ride on the well-known Laugavegur hiking trail and spend the night in one of the huts. Hikers crowded the hut, so there was no room left except on the floor. They accept credit cards, but the hut keeper had to step outside to get reception in order to charge us. I decided on a hot shower too, for an extra cost. Later, we discovered that they never charged us for our accommodation. I was delighted that we opted to stay at the cozy hut, because the next day resulted in terrible weather. The sight of ominous clouds looming overhead, coupled with the rain, would complicate the disassembly of the camp. The air had a damp, earthy scent. We were riding in the frigid storm again. Shelter was nowhere to be found. We also met another couple on bikes. They assured us about a hut somewhere on our way. A glimmer on the horizon ignited hope. A colossal rock stood there instead. We took advantage of it anyway and took cover behind to refuel. After a few hours, we made it to the hut. I dressed in all my layers and huddled in the corner, teeth chattering, while everyone else wore sleeveless shirts. Chris was prepared to go. I required more time to rewarm myself. It turned out I made a good choice as the rain eased and my bike’s shifting stopped working properly. A couple from the hut stumbled upon us while we were fixing it during their outing. Despite their best intentions, they couldn’t help. Finally, Chris maneuvered the cable correctly, and we were off. We traversed a single-track which posed a significant challenge. It led to the hot springs. Going into them would cook us alive. We worked our way around them, identifying a safe spot to cross the deep, fast river simultaneously. Day’s adventures done, we broke camp. The wind and rain ceased at that point, and we felt quite exhausted.

The following day dawned with a warm sun casting a golden glow on the landscape. We could at last unwind and savor the breathtaking scenery that unfolded before our eyes. As we took it all in, as we rode, a sense of serenity washed over us, enabling us to appreciate the stunning beauty that surrounded us. We met three other bikepackers from England on the same loop. We took a break from our journey to have a conversation. The extended climbs, with their significant elevation gains, were taking their toll on us. Nap or quick rest was always an option. As our journey progressed, the landscape underwent a remarkable metamorphosis before our eyes. The lush green surroundings, now replaced by dirt and snowy patches, were a stark contrast. We trudged forward, our bikes leaving tracks behind us. We continued for a couple more days. Favorable weather persisted during our return journey to the ring road.

Pizza in Hella was the most satisfying meal. From there, we carried on and ultimately headed towards the coast. The aim was to touch the ocean. We accomplished it. I envisioned the shoreline to be like what Connecticut offers. It couldn’t be further from the truth. The shore was barren, and we traveled through a single town and encountered only a single store. We named it the ‘happy town’ because the residents congregated in the town center with all the kids who were full of energy. Winnie the Pooh decorations adorned the tiny streets. We didn’t see many people. We were making our way toward the erupting volcano. Volcanos made the area unsuitable for settlement. Of course, the strong wind was present in every location we visited, but sunny and mild conditions left little to complain. We ended up in a free campground offered by an older lady, who is hospitable to campers on her land. The surprise in this desolate setting was strikingly evident. Starting from that location, we followed route 42 in the direction of Reykjavik. We experienced geysers and a beautiful blue lake, along with amazing landscapes and a northern lights observatory. Going back to Reykjavik was crazier as we had to ride on the highway. A less traveled road, on the way, despite lengthening the journey, offered refuge from the traffic and ended up at a campground in a town of modest size. On the subsequent day, we made it to the airport and took our bikes apart. I concluded, this bikepacking trip surpassed all of our others.