On the third morning, the rain stopped. It was replaced by sun and wind. Our morning route included some paved narrow country roads, and we had a chance to see highland cows. They stared at us from behind stone fencing with their hair overcasting their intrigued eyes. It was obvious we were in some small village as we passed houses. We were hoping to get into town and eat something more substantial. We stopped by a small, beautiful waterfall. The river flowed through the countryside, with a small bridge near the waterfall but not crossing over. Curious, we opened the gate and walked onto the bridge. The shimmering water was very calming. Not so long after, we were passing black and white sheep and a couple closing a gate of their homestead. We made a comment about the sheep to them, and they offered us cake and tea. With our muddy shoes and unreliable socks, we decided it was best not to enter their house and risk staining the clean floors. We decided to sit outside at their garden table. Despite the chill, the repose was enjoyable, and the prepared hot tea was particularly gratifying. We talked about sheep, country living, their history in the area, trees, birds and our adventure. The friendly conversation made it hard to leave. We followed their instruction and stopped at another small waterfall. In the town, I purchased a bag of rice and placed my phone with it in a Ziploc bag as I hoped it would help it revive. We meandered through nice gravel roads towards more remote area again. The climbing became more prevalent, but the landscape was breathtaking. What differentiated it from other ones we already saw was rocks everywhere. It gave it a very ancient feeling. Indeed, these rocks and landscape felt untouched by human hand and possibly remained unchanged for hundreds of years. I imagined armored armies passing through or horse carriages rattling on the uneven terrain. The rocks gave way to a beautiful lake at the feet of the hills. The sun reflected in it and added to the mystical air. There was no soul in sight, and it was an absolutely incredible experience. Human interference on the landscape became more apparent over time. The tree farms were visible from a distance. We were even surprised by a cyclist. We had a brief conversation before he peeled off and disappeared into the distance. He pointed out the muddy conditions of a trail ahead of us. Soon we arrived by another lake. We pedaled alongside and the conditions were muddy, as predicted. When the muddy double track changed to a gravel road, we stopped at the shore to wash off our bikes. The weather remained unpredictable throughout the day. Sometimes the clouds overcast the sky and sun, some areas were already wet suggesting that we missed a downpour. We traveled through a wooded area and through a bridge over Black Rock Gorge. It was deep and narrow and we could see water flowing through it. We both exclaimed in wonder. We even saw a hiking couple and passed next through a wooden playground. Finally, in the town, we ate and resupplied. Chris offered to carry my bag of rice. The temperature dropped and we resolved to find a camping spot. We soon found one at a local park. I did my laundry and washed off in the warm water in the bathroom. It felt wonderful. We hid our bikes behind the tents and soon were fast asleep.